Thursday, November 12, 2015

New Zealand: WWOOFing in Clive Hawke's Bay

WWOOF, Clive Hawke's Bay, Napier
WWOOFing in Clive Hawke's Bay. Playing with Saul in the downtime.
It feels like I have been away from home for a century, even though it has only been a week. I can’t believe how many people I’ve met, places I’ve seen, and mountains I’ve climbed. But now I’m on to the next leg of my journey: WWOOFing. WWOOF stands for Willing Workers Organization for Organic Farmers and promotes a cultural blend by exchanging work for room and board. When one is backpacking, one only meets backpackers. When one is WWOOFing, one meets kiwis.

I am staying in Clive, part of the conglomeration of towns along the eastern edge of the North island that are gathered along Clive Hawke’s Bay. This is the wine country of New Zealand. Napier and Hastings are both famous for their New Zealand wines. The volcanic ash and rich land from the geological activity feed the grapes and the grapes feed the wine and the wine feeds the people.

It’s only been two days, and I’ve already tasted the finest wines, hiked the finest hikes, witnessed the legendary rainbows, and biked into Napier. The real goal for this visit (along with learning the life of a kiwi), is to spot some New Zealand orcas off the coast. Whether is a bicycle ride for some coffee or an evening walk with the dog, I constantly make excuses to walk along the ocean so I can, hopefully, spot an orca.

When I ask people about it, they laugh and think I’m joking. But one lady I met actually saw a pod of orcas fishing from the point that I have walked multiple times now. New Zealand is famous for having a specific “species” (depending on the scientist you ask) of orca that lives in New Zealand waters and travels along the New Zealand coast, searching for manta rays. I could tell you a million things about this special type of orca, but I’ll save it for the dinner conversation over Chardonnay and lamb meat.

There are many things that kiwis do, but one of the most consistent is that they love to drink and they love to eat. Now, this is probably not very different from any other culture, EXCEPT for a very special addendum. They love to drink kiwi drinks and they love to eat kiwi food. Spanish wine is not for them, French wine is not for them. California wine is sometimes for them. Kiwi wine is always for them. In the same vein, their grapefruit is from their neighbor’s sister, their lamb chop is from down the street, their asparagus is from their childhood friend, and their tea is out of their garden.

They can get it from wherever they want, but it’s all kiwi to me.

The Sleeping Giant, Te Mata, Clive Hawke's Bay, Napier
Clive Hawke's Bay, overlooking a rock formation called the Sleeping Giant. I am living beyond the river in the middle right side of the picture.

WWOOF, Clive Hawke's Bay, Napier
WWOOFing Clive Hawke's Bay. The view from my window after a sunny rain. The goats graze in front of the trees and the sheep graze behind the trees.